images/HST - Courtesy of NASA (crop)
Welcome!
Are you looking for tips on how to choose your first telescope? Here they are! This is a little questionnaire created precisely in order to help you choose the best telescope for you to start your career as an amateur astronomer. Meanwhile, this test will also help to increase your awareness of this hobby with some small culture pill about amateur astronomy. The test consists of 5 questions in binary response (that is, each with two possible answers). At the end of the five questions, based on the situation depicted by your answers, you will be presented a little hint about the most suitable astronomical setup (telescope and mount) for your needs of novice amateur astronomer. Obviously, this test does not presume to exhaust the subject, but it should help you to understand the types of existing telescopes and to choose the best suited for your needs.
Before proceeding, a necessary disclaimer: the results of this test are a personal opinion of the author and do not represent any presumption of an absolute truth.
Have fun!
Mak127 - Courtesy of Gianluca Bianchi
First of all, let me say that it is a pity to have a dark sky and not take advantage of it. Of course, even a telescope designed for the so-called "high-resolution astronomy", if it has a good diameter, can be effective for the deep-sky astronomy. Anyway, think about it ;)
For planetary observation, conversely, dark skies are not needed. But the local seeing (atmospheric turbulence), which varies by the hour also depending on weather conditions, does make the difference. After some time you'll find out if your position can benefit of a good average seeing; if not, perhaps you can find better places near your home.
For hi-res observations, you can use nearly all telescopes, from a small refractor to a large Dobsonian telescope, but long focal instruments like Maksutov or Schmidt-Cassegrain (SC) are particularly effective. Beyond the small and inexpensive refractor, historically considered the most common entry-level telescope, the best value for money they probably small Maksutov (90 or better to 127mm in diameter), which, coupled with a modest class mount like the "eq3" or a simple altazimuth mount, computerized or not, will undoubtedly give you a lot of amusement. It is an easy-to-use telescope, very lightweight and compact for its diameter and that do not require special maintenance.
If you are looking for a bigger diameter, you can think about an SC as the valuable Celestron C6 (150mm), the classic C8 (200mm) and the brilliant C9 1/4 (235mm), also on their practice fork mount, which will give you great satisfaction. There are also larger sizes available, but they are considered demanding telescopes even for the experienced amateur astronomer.
Those who have a more classic taste can also enjoy small refractors, preferably apochromatic or with a long focal ratio (but you should keep in mind that you'll need a stronger mount), which provide particularly stable and satisfying images, but obviously fewer details.
Always remember that the mount is as important as the optical tube and its strength is essential: distrusts telescopes sold on lightweight mounts because the observational experience will be seriously affected.
Finally, for a particularly low budget, a cheap but still very effective solution is the classic Dobsonian with a diameter of 150 or 200mm. It is a spartan but complete telescope (its stable mount is integrated), generally without electronics, which already offer a good diameter and which is thus also suitable for deep sky observation (for which the diameter is by far the most important aspect, together with dark skies).
dobson_go
In this case, the choice is very simple: just take the bigger Dobsonian you can afford and handle.
The Dobsonian telescope is a newton telescope on a very basic altazimuth mount. Up to a diameter of 200-250mm, it is usually sold in the "tube" configuration; but, from 300mm up, due to the overall dimensions and weights, they are usually sold in a dismountable "truss structure" configuration. Before buying it, however, I strongly recommend you to see it with your eyes and to verify that you are able to move it!
A valid entry level configuration for a dobson could be a 200mm f/5, which can be bought, used, for about 250 EUR or less.
Unfortunately, Newton telescopes require some maintenance (they need periodical collimation). However it is not a difficult procedure, and you will learn it quickly. Sky objects are usually pointed manually, and it requires some practice. However, there are more expensive models that employ the so-called "go-to" (software and engines which allow automatic pointing) or the assisted pointing (which guide you on where to point).
If you like large fields of view, you can also consider binoculars: a classic 10x50 (10x magnification, 50mm in diameter of the front lens), an 8x42 or even something more cumbersome and challenging, if you prefer, will allow you to explore with great effectiveness star clusters and brighter nebulae. However, consider that the binoculars are always a great complement to the telescope.
refractor on altazimuth mount
First of all, let me say that it is a pity to have a dark sky and not take advantage of it. Of course, even a telescope designed for the so-called "high-resolution astronomy", if it has a good diameter, can be effective for the deep-sky astronomy. Anyway, think about it ;)
For planetary observation, conversely, dark skies are not needed. But the local seeing (atmospheric turbulence), which varies by the hour also depending on weather conditions, does make the difference. After some time you'll find out if your position can benefit of a good average seeing; if not, perhaps you can find better places near your home.
For hi-res observations, you can use nearly all telescopes, from a small refractor to a large Dobsonian telescope, but long focal instruments like Maksutov or Schmidt-Cassegrain (SC) are particularly effective. Beyond the small and inexpensive refractor, historically considered the most common entry-level telescope, the best value for money they probably small Maksutov (90 or better to 127mm in diameter), which, coupled with a modest class mount like the "eq3" or a simple altazimuth mount, computerized or not, will undoubtedly give you a lot of amusement. It is an easy-to-use telescope, very lightweight and compact for its diameter and that do not require special maintenance.
If you are looking for a bigger diameter, you can think about an SC as the valuable Celestron C6 (150mm), the classic C8 (200mm) and the brilliant C9 1/4 (235mm), also on their practice fork mount, which will give you great satisfaction. There are also larger sizes available, but they are considered demanding telescopes even for the experienced amateur astronomer.
Those who have a more classic taste can also enjoy small refractors, preferably apochromatic or with a long focal ratio (but you should keep in mind that you'll need a stronger mount), which provide particularly stable and satisfying images, but obviously fewer details.
Always remember that the mount is as important as the optical tube and its strength is essential: distrusts telescopes sold on lightweight mounts because the observational experience will be seriously affected.
Finally, for a particularly low budget, a cheap but still very effective solution is the classic Dobsonian with a diameter of 150 or 200mm. It is a spartan but complete telescope (its stable mount is integrated), generally without electronics, which already offer a good diameter and which is thus also suitable for deep sky observation (for which the diameter is by far the most important aspect, together with dark skies).
dobson 400mm
In this case, the choice is very simple: simply take the bigger Dobsonian you can afford and handle.
The Dobsonian telescope is a newton telescope on a very basic altazimuth mount. Up to a diameter of 200-250mm, it is usually sold in the "tube" configuration; but, from 300mm up, due to the overall dimensions and weights, they are usually sold in a dismountable "truss structure" configuration. Before buying it, however, I strongly recommend you to see it with your eyes and to verify that you are able to move it! A valid entry level configuration for a dobson could be a 200mm f/5, which can be bought, used, for about 250 EUR or less.
Unfortunately, Newton telescopes require some maintenance (they need periodical collimation). However it is not a difficult procedure, and you will learn it quickly. Sky objects are usually pointed manually, and it requires some practice. However, there are more expensive models that employ the so-called "go-to" (software and engines which allow automatic pointing) or the assisted pointing (which guide you on where to point).
If you like large fields of view, you can also consider binoculars: a classic 10x50 (10x magnification, 50mm in diameter of the front lens), an 8x42 or even something more cumbersome and challenging, if you prefer, will allow you to explore with great effectiveness star clusters and brighter nebulae. However, consider that the binoculars are always a great complement to the telescope.
Mak127 - configuration for hi-res photography
First of all, let me say that it is a pity to have a dark sky and not take advantage of it. Of course, even a telescope designed for the so-called "high-resolution astronomy", if it has a good diameter, can be effective for the deep-sky astronomy. Anyway, think about it ;)
For planetary observation, conversely, dark skies are not needed. But the local seeing (atmospheric turbulence), which varies by the hour also depending on weather conditions, does make the difference. After some time you'll find out if your position can benefit of a good average seeing; if not, perhaps you can find better places near your home.
For hi-res photography, telescope diameter and efficiency are fundamental: even an expensive telescope will produce poor results if not properly collimated or acclimatised. For this reason, Newton telescopes, despite having the best diameter/cost ratio, are usually not considered the best choice for this task because they are quite difficult to perfectly set up.
The biggest Schmidt-Cassegrain, such as C11 or C14, are probably the telescopes that give best results with (relatively) less commitment. Unfortunately, they are also quite expensive and require very robust - and therefore expensive - mounts. A more manageable and easy-to-use entry-level solution could be a small Maksutov 127mm on a motorised equatorial mount, preferably of the HEQ5 class. A 200mm Newton telescope on an equatorial mount would offer a higher resolution, but its use is a bit more complex.
Also keep in mind that you will need to keep a reasonable share of your budget for a fast camera and a high-quality Barlow lens to achieve the best equivalent focal length for your setup.
To convert the movies shot with your camera in photos to show to your friends, you will need some post-production work with specific software (usually free, for the record): be prepared to work a lot with your computer.
refractor 130mm pentax
The astrophotography of the deep sky is probably the most challenging branch of astrophotography, even in terms of investments. In addition to a high-quality telescope, meaning both optics and structure, you need an expensive and granitic mount and an effective guidance system, which can be very complex to manage. Starting on your own, without the support of someone who has previous experience in this field, can be very challenging. In any case, consider that you will need to invest a lot of time, too. The results will improve slowly, but the satisfaction will be undoubtedly great.
For a gradual learning curve (and budget curve), you may want to start with just a simple camera (not a cheap compact camera, anyway) to shoot wide-field photos of the Milky Way, star-trails (pictures showing the apparent movement of the stars in the sky as curved lines) or time lapse (movies that show the earth rotation). If you have a motorised mount, you can use it to track the apparent motion of the firmament or take longer poses of the night sky.
The next step is to connect an imaging camera to the telescope. It is not a simple step because things get quickly complicated.
A deep-sky complete setup which remains easy to manage consists of a small ED refractor (which has a very low chromatism) on a class heq5 mount, or better eq6, plus a system for self-guiding.
For a particularly tight budget, a small newton (150mm) on a heq5 mount is a cheaper solution which is a bit more complex to manage but still usable.
In any case, you will have to cope with cables, connections, software settings and image processing software. Do not rush: there is so much to learn!
Mak127 - configuration for hi-res photography
First of all, let me say that it is a pity to have a dark sky and not take advantage of it. Of course, even a telescope designed for the so-called "high-resolution astronomy", if it has a good diameter, can be effective for the deep-sky astronomy. Anyway, think about it ;)
For planetary photography, conversely, dark skies are not needed. But the local seeing (atmospheric turbulence), which varies by the hour also depending on weather conditions, does make the difference. After some time you'll find out if your position can benefit of a good average seeing; if not, perhaps you can find better places near your home.
For hi-res photography, telescope diameter and efficiency are fundamental: even an expensive telescope will produce poor results if not properly collimated or acclimatised. For this reason, Newton telescopes, despite having the best diameter/cost ratio, are usually not considered the best choice for this task because they are quite difficult to perfectly set up.
The biggest Schmidt-Cassegrain, such as C11 or C14, are probably the telescopes that give best results with (relatively) less commitment. Unfortunately, they are also quite expensive and require very robust - and therefore expensive - mounts.
A more manageable and easy-to-use entry-level solution could be a small Maksutov 127mm on a motorised equatorial mount, preferably of the heq5 class. A 200mm Newton telescope on an equatorial mount would offer a higher resolution, but its use is a bit more complex.
Also keep in mind that you will need to keep a reasonable share of your budget for a fast camera and a high-quality Barlow lens to achieve the best equivalent focal length for your setup.
To convert the movies shot with your camera in photos to show to your friends, you will need some post-production work with specific software (usually free, for the record): be prepared to work a lot with your computer...
refractor 130mm pentax
The astrophotography of the deep sky is probably the most challenging branch of astrophotography, even in terms of investments. In addition to a high-quality telescope, meaning both optics and structure, you need an expensive and granitic mount and an effective guidance system, which can be very complex to manage. Starting on your own, without the support of someone who has previous experience in this field, can be very challenging. In any case, consider that you will need to invest a lot of time, too. The results will improve slowly, but the satisfaction will be undoubtedly great.
For a gradual learning curve (and budget curve), you may want to start with just a simple camera (not a cheap compact camera, anyway) to shoot wide-field photos of the Milky Way, star-trails (pictures showing the apparent movement of the stars in the sky as curved lines) or time lapse (movies that show the earth rotation). If you have a motorised mount, you can use it to track the apparent motion of the firmament or take longer poses of the night sky.
The next step is to connect an imaging camera to the telescope. It is not a simple step because things get quickly complicated.
A deep-sky complete setup which remains easy to manage consists of a small ED refractor (which has a very low chromatism) on a class HEQ5 mount, or better EQ6, plus a system for self-guiding.
For a particularly tight budget, a small newton (diameter 150mm) on a heq5 mount is a cheaper solution which is a bit more complex to manage but still usable.
In any case, you will have to cope with cables, connections, software settings and image processing software. Nowadays it is inevitable. Do not rush: there is so much to learn!
Mak127 - Courtesy of Gianluca Bianchi
Ok, your sky is not dark. Never mind: for planetary observation it does not count. But the local seeing (atmospheric turbulence), which varies by the hour also depending on weather conditions, does make the difference. After some time you'll find out if your position can benefit of a good average seeing; if not, perhaps you can find better places near your home.
For hi-res observations, you can use nearly all telescopes, from a small refractor to a large Dobsonian telescope, but long focal instruments like Maksutov or Schmidt-Cassegrain (SC) are particularly effective.
Beyond the small and inexpensive refractor, historically considered the most common entry-level telescope, the best value for money they probably small Maksutov (90 or better to 127mm in diameter), which, coupled with a modest class mount like the "eq3" or a simple altazimuth mount, computerized or not, will undoubtedly give you a lot of amusement. It is an easy-to-use telescope, very lightweight and compact for its diameter and that do not require special maintenance.
If you are looking for a bigger diameter, you can think about an SC as the valuable Celestron C6 (150mm), the classic C8 (200mm) and the brilliant C9 1/4 (235mm), also on their practice fork mount, which will give you great satisfaction. There are also larger sizes available, but they are considered demanding telescopes even for the experienced amateur astronomer.
Those who have a more classic taste can also enjoy small refractors, preferably apochromatic or with a long focal ratio (but you should keep in mind that you'll need a stronger mount), which provide particularly stable and satisfying images, but obviously fewer details.
Always remember that the mount is as important as the optical tube and its strength is essential: distrusts telescopes sold on lightweight mounts because the observational experience will be seriously affected.
Finally, for a particularly low budget, a cheap but still very effective solution is the classic Dobsonian with a diameter of 150 or 200mm. It is a spartan but complete telescope (its stable mount is integrated), generally without electronics, which already offer a good diameter and which is thus also suitable for deep sky observation (for which the diameter is by far the most important aspect, together with dark skies).
dobson_go
You are in a rather unfortunate situation: "I would like but I can't". In fact, for those who want to observe the deep sky, not having a dark sky is a definitive no-go.
However, as many amateurs astronomers do, you could consider the possibility to travel to darker sites, even if they are a hundred kilometres far. You could also buy optical filters to fight the so-called light pollution, but they are more like a modest palliative. At worst, what I can suggest is to try to review your priorities and direct your passion so that it is more compatible with your boundary conditions. You could target your interest on the observation of the solar system objects, for example.
Try to repeat this test to think about the various possibilities. Once again, joining an amateur astronomers club can give you new ideas and solutions.
refractor on altazimuth mount
Ok, your sky is not dark. Never mind: for planetary observation it does not count. But the local seeing (atmospheric turbulence), which varies by the hour also depending on weather conditions, does make the difference. After some time you'll find out if your position can benefit of a good average seeing; if not, perhaps you can find better places near your home.
For hi-res observations, you can use nearly all telescopes, from a small refractor to a large Dobsonian telescope, but long focal instruments like Maksutov or Schmidt-Cassegrain (SC) are particularly effective.
Beyond the small and inexpensive refractor, historically considered the most common entry-level telescope, the best value for money they probably small Maksutov (90 or better to 127mm in diameter), which, coupled with a modest class mount like the "eq3" or a simple altazimuth mount, computerized or not, will undoubtedly give you a lot of amusement. It is an easy-to-use telescope, very lightweight and compact for its diameter and that do not require special maintenance.
If you are looking for a bigger diameter, you can think about an SC as the valuable Celestron C6 (150mm), the classic C8 (200mm) and the brilliant C9 1/4 (235mm), also on their practice fork mount, which will give you great satisfaction. There are also larger sizes available, but they are considered demanding telescopes even for the experienced amateur astronomer.
Those who have a more classic taste can also enjoy small refractors, preferably apochromatic or with a long focal ratio (but you should keep in mind that you'll need a stronger mount), which provide particularly stable and satisfying images, but obviously fewer details.
Always remember that the mount is as important as the optical tube and its strength is essential: distrusts telescopes sold on lightweight mounts because the observational experience will be seriously affected.
Finally, for a particularly low budget, a cheap but still very effective solution is the classic Dobsonian with a diameter of 150 or 200mm. It is a spartan but complete telescope (its stable mount is integrated), generally without electronics, which already offer a good diameter and which is thus also suitable for deep sky observation (for which the diameter is by far the most important aspect, together with dark skies).
dobson in azione - Courtesy of EITSA.it
You are in a rather unfortunate situation: "I would like but I can't". In fact, for those who want to observe the deep sky, not having a dark sky is a definitive no-go.
However, as many amateurs astronomers do, you could consider the possibility to travel to darker sites, even if they are a hundred kilometres far. You could also buy optical filters to fight the so-called light pollution, but they are more like a modest palliative. At worst, what I can suggest is to try to review your priorities and direct your passion so that it is more compatible with your boundary conditions. You could target your interest on the observation of the solar system objects, for example.
Try to repeat this test to think about the various possibilities. Once again, joining an amateur astronomers club can give you new ideas and solutions.
Mak127 - configuration for hi-res photography
Ok, your sky is not dark. Never mind: for planetary observation it does not count. But the local seeing (atmospheric turbulence), which varies by the hour also depending on weather conditions, does make the difference. After some time you'll find out if your position can benefit of a good average seeing; if not, perhaps you can find better places near your home.
For hi-res photography, telescope diameter and efficiency are fundamental: even an expensive telescope will produce poor results if not properly collimated or acclimatised. For this reason, Newton telescopes, despite having the best diameter/cost ratio, are usually not considered the best choice for this task because they are quite difficult to perfectly set up.
The biggest Schmidt-Cassegrain, such as C11 or C14, are probably the telescopes that give best results with (relatively) less commitment. Unfortunately, they are also quite expensive and require very robust - and therefore expensive - mounts.
A more manageable and easy-to-use entry-level solution could be a small Maksutov 127mm on a motorised equatorial mount, preferably of the heq5 class. A 200mm Newton telescope on an equatorial mount would offer a higher resolution, but its use is a bit more complex.
Also keep in mind that you will need to keep a reasonable share of your budget for a fast camera and a high-quality Barlow lens to achieve the best equivalent focal length for your setup.
To convert the movies shot with your camera in photos to show to your friends, you will need some post-production work with specific software (usually free, for the record): be prepared to work a lot with your computer.
setup da viaggio
First of all, you should take into consideration that, even if astrophotography from moderately light-polluted skies is still possible, obtaining remarkable results will be much more difficult (and expensive, in terms of indispensable aids). In any case, step by step, you can do it. ;)
The astrophotography of the deep sky is probably the most challenging branch of astrophotography, even in terms of investments. In addition to a high-quality telescope, meaning both optics and structure, you need an expensive and granitic mount and an effective guidance system, which can be very complex to manage. Starting on your own, without the support of someone who has previous experience in this field, can be very challenging. In any case, consider that you will need to invest a lot of time, too. The results will improve slowly, but the satisfaction will be undoubtedly great.
For a gradual learning curve (and budget curve), you may want to start with just a simple camera (not a cheap compact camera, anyway) to shoot wide-field photos of the Milky Way, star-trails (pictures showing the apparent movement of the stars in the sky as curved lines) or time lapse (movies that show the earth rotation). If you have a motorised mount, you can use it to track the apparent motion of the firmament or take longer poses of the night sky.
The next step is to connect an imaging camera to the telescope. It is not a simple step because things get quickly complicated.
A deep-sky complete setup which remains easy to manage consists of a small ED refractor (which has a very low chromatism) on a class heq5 mount, or better eq6, plus a system for self-guiding.
For a particularly tight budget, a small newton (150mm) on a heq5 mount is a cheaper solution which is a bit more complex to manage but still usable.
In any case, you will have to cope with cables, connections, software settings and image processing software. Nowadays it is inevitable. Do not rush: there is so much to learn!
Mak127 - configuration for hi-res photography
Ok, your sky is not dark. Never mind: for planetary observation it does not count. But the local seeing (atmospheric turbulence), which varies by the hour also depending on weather conditions, does make the difference. After some time you'll find out if your position can benefit of a good average seeing; if not, perhaps you can find better places near your home.
For hi-res photography, telescope diameter and efficiency are fundamental: even an expensive telescope will produce poor results if not properly collimated or acclimatised. For this reason, Newton telescopes, despite having the best diameter/cost ratio, are usually not considered the best choice for this task because they are quite difficult to perfectly set up.
The biggest Schmidt-Cassegrain, such as C11 or C14, are probably the telescopes that give best results with (relatively) less commitment. Unfortunately, they are also quite expensive and require very robust - and therefore expensive - mounts.
A more manageable and easy-to-use entry-level solution could be a small Maksutov 127mm on a motorised equatorial mount, preferably of the heq5 class. A 200mm Newton telescope on an equatorial mount would offer a higher resolution, but its use is a bit more complex.
Also keep in mind that you will need to keep a reasonable share of your budget for a fast camera and a high-quality Barlow lens to achieve the best equivalent focal length for your setup.
To convert the movies shot with your camera in photos to show to your friends, you will need some post-production work with specific software (usually free, for the record): be prepared to work a lot with your computer...
setup da viaggio
First of all, you should take into consideration that, even if astrophotography from moderately light-polluted skies is still possible, obtaining remarkable results will be much more difficult (and expensive, in terms of indispensable aids). In any case, step by step, you can do it. ;)
The astrophotography of the deep sky is probably the most challenging branch of astrophotography, even in terms of investments. In addition to a high-quality telescope, meaning both optics and structure, you need an expensive and granitic mount and an effective guidance system, which can be very complex to manage. Starting on your own, without the support of someone who has previous experience in this field, can be very challenging. In any case, consider that you will need to invest a lot of time, too. The results will improve slowly, but the satisfaction will be undoubtedly great.
For a gradual learning curve (and budget curve), you may want to start with just a simple camera (not a cheap compact camera, anyway) to shoot wide-field photos of the Milky Way, star-trails (pictures showing the apparent movement of the stars in the sky as curved lines) or time lapse (movies that show the earth rotation). If you have a motorised mount, you can use it to track the apparent motion of the firmament or take longer poses of the night sky.
The next step is to connect an imaging camera to the telescope. It is not a simple step because things get quickly complicated.
A deep-sky complete setup which remains easy to manage consists of a small ED refractor (which has a very low chromatism) on a class heq5 mount, or better eq6, plus a system for self-guiding.
For a particularly tight budget, a small newton (150mm) on a heq5 mount is a cheaper solution which is a bit more complex to manage but still usable.
In any case, you will have to cope with cables, connections, software settings and image processing software. Do not rush: there is so much to learn!
Error - invalid sequence - Repeat the test.